A few years ago, I was listening to a podcast with the founder of a well-known sustainable fashion brand. She spoke about various approaches to sustainable fashion, but one sentence stuck with me: "Using deadstock, organic cotton, or recycled polyester is not synonymous with sustainability. Sustainability is much more; it is an 'umbrella term'." This thought prompted me to reflect more deeply on what responsible fashion truly means.
What is deadstock?
Deadstock, or surplus fabrics from previous production runs, has become a popular solution for brands that want to be more responsible. At first glance, it sounds great—we are utilizing material that would otherwise end up in a landfill. But is it really that simple?
The reality is more complex. Responsible fashion has a much deeper meaning and more indicators than just the use of deadstock materials or organic cotton. It is a systemic approach that addresses the problems of the fashion industry in their full breadth.
Challenges associated with using deadstock
One of the main problems with deadstock materials is a lack of transparency. We often do not know where these fabrics come from, what chemicals were used in their production, or why they were not used in the first place. Without this information, it is difficult to judge whether their use is truly sustainable. In the Czech Republic, Textile Mountain, for example, is doing an excellent job. (You can also find information about where their deadstock materials come from.)
At the same time, there are concerns that some factories deliberately overproduce fabrics because they know they can sell them as deadstock. This undermines the entire concept of sustainability and can lead to even greater overproduction.
Another aspect is greenwashing—unfair marketing practices. Some brands may use deadstock as the main argument for their sustainability without addressing other important aspects, such as ethical production, fair wages, or reducing overall production.
A comprehensive approach to sustainability
That does not mean we should reject deadstock entirely. It can be a valuable resource for smaller designers or brands that need access to more affordable materials. But we should not consider it a panacea for the problems of the fashion industry.
True sustainability in fashion requires a comprehensive approach. It involves the use of recyclable and biodegradable materials, new forms of design such as upcycling, transparency throughout the supply chain, ethical production, and also a change in our approach to shopping and fashion consumption.
Our approach at ADVA Studios
At ADVA, we strive to respond to these challenges. We focus on transparency, ethical production, and the creation of high-quality, timeless pieces that last a long time. We believe that sustainability in fashion is a journey, not a destination, and we try to be a little better every day.
And organic deadstock is the new direction we have incorporated into our concept. We are giving forgotten fabrics a new story, while still knowing their transparent journey. The new pieces made from deadstock are Airy Lines Lyocell shirts and trousers.