Polyester is the most well-known synthetic fiber, often associated with the phenomenon of fast fashion and cheap apparel. This material is the most widely used in the fashion industry, accounting for 54% of all materials used in 2021. According to Textile Exchange, its production has increased by nearly 10% since 2016.

Polyester as plastic

Polyester fiber is produced by refining petroleum or natural gas, which are known non-renewable resources. Chemical substances derived from these sources are transformed into the polymer polyethylene terephthalate - known as PET - therefore, polyester is a plastic. PET then undergoes an extrusion and spinning process into fibers, which leads to the creation of polyester. China, as the primary producer, covers more than 75% of global production.

Non-renewable resource

Given its production from fossil fuels, polyester is and will remain a non-renewable resource. Although it uses less water than conventional cotton during production, the process is very energy-intensive. Antimony trioxide, used as a catalyst, is a scientifically proven carcinogen. Although variants of polyester without antimony trioxide exist, they make up only a small fraction of the market - moreover, one cannot track exactly what chemicals a material contains anywhere.

Toxic chemicals

Dyeing and subsequent finishing of polyester represent the most toxic aspect of its production. Since it is essentially plastic, the process requires special chemicals and dyes to be able to bind the plastic fibers together. Previously used AZO dyes (a known carcinogen) are now banned, however, there are many examples where they still appear in our clothing. The question is whether alternatives exist that are truly gentle and non-toxic. In her book "To Dye For," Alden Wicker states, after an interview with Lee Ferguson, that polyester can be dyed with two types of dyes - azo dyes and anthraquinone dyes. However, even anthraquinone dyes can be toxic. In essence, this tells us that synthetic materials - including polyester - cannot be dyed safely.

“Polyester is plastic, and plastic logically cannot be dyed with natural dyes. Therefore, it must always involve chemicals that are toxic in some way. There are many cases, especially with airlines (Alaska Airlines or United Airlines), where it was shown that staff suffered severe health consequences from wearing their uniforms every day, which contained banned toxic dyes.”

Microplastics

Synthetic materials, such as polyester, are not biodegradable. Besides the fact that most synthetic clothing ends up in landfills, where it further pollutes our air - the biggest environmental problem is microplastics released during washing. A study has shown that one polyester jacket can release up to 250,000 microplastics during a wash, which subsequently pollute the oceans and threaten marine life. According to the International Union for Conservation of Nature, approximately 1.5 million tons of microplastics enter the ocean every year, and 34.8% of this comes from synthetic textiles.

How to avoid polyester

For these very reasons, ADVA has been “polyester free” since its inception. We strive to offer you alternatives that may be a bit more labor-intensive to maintain, but are environmentally friendly and, above all, kind to your skin and health.

“The most ideal advice is, do not buy any new polyester clothing - especially avoid those marketed as, for example, ‘wrinkle-free’ - the chemical cocktail used for such a finish will always be toxic. Shop in second-hand stores, where clothing has been washed so many times that it will contain only a negligible or no amount of toxic substances. And always prefer clothing made from certified natural materials,” adds Aneta.

Read more about toxic chemicals in clothing in our article.